A cyclist’s adventure: Island-hopping across Shimanami Kaido

A sea of islands

Japan’s Seto Inland Sea (瀬戸内海 Seto naikai) is a stunning body of water composed of around 3,000 islands. A playground to fishermen, sailors, and others engaged in marine-based trades, much of the focus here is on water-related activities. There is one pastime, however, that is arguably just as deeply-rooted as these more sea-centred traditions.

A panoramic shot of the port town of Onomichi. (Image credit: Josh Grengs)

Although it bears no direct connection to the ocean surrounding the Seto Inland Sea’s many islands, cycling is an intimate part of the culture and communities that make up this region. And the pinnacle of cycling adventures that await the Seto-bound traveller is without a doubt a tour across the legendary Shimanami Kaido (しまなみ海道 Shimanami Kaidō).

Setting off from Onomichi

Kosanji Temple on Ikuchijima Island. (Image credit: Josh Grengs)

There are two directions one can travel across the 70km-long Shimanami Kaido: one begins in Ehime’s (愛媛県 Ehime-ken) Imabari (今治市 Imabari-shi) and the other in Hiroshima’s (広島県) Onomichi (尾道市 Onomichi-shi). Due to its convenient access from Japan’s main island of Honshu (本州), Onomichi is in many ways the more popular route; it is also a great place to start thanks to the ease of renting a bicycle there. Yes, that’s right, renting a bicycle. One of the best parts of cycling the Shimanami Kaido is that there is no need to bring your own bike. Even better, bicycle rental shops in the towns of Imabari and Onomichi cooperate by allowing cyclists to rent at one location and return the bicycle at the other, after finishing the journey. Indeed, once you’ve ridden your bike for around 70km, you will be more than happy to return it at your new location without having to ride back to where you started.

A bridge to new islands

One of the many bridges connecting island to island on the Shimanami Kaido. (Image credit: photoAC)

Shimanami Kaido consists of six main islands all connected by a series of picturesque suspension bridges. After setting off from Onomichi, the first island you will reach is Mukaishima (向島), followed by Innoshima (因島), Ikuchijima (生口島), Omishima (大三島), Hakatashima (伯方島), and Oshima (大島), before arriving at Imabari. Each island affords breathtaking views of the Seto Inland Sea as well as a variety of sites and attractions worth visiting along the way. For those interested in taking their time to tour the Shimanami Kaido, there are also various places to stay on each island. This way, you will not have to feel rushed to complete your cycling adventure before nightfall. One must-stop spot along the Shimanami Kaido is Kosanji Temple (耕三寺 Kōsanji) on Ikuchijima Island. Home to an artificial cave, giant pagoda, and walking area covered entirely in Italian marble, this temple is truly unlike any other you will find in Japan.

Destination: Imabari

Sunset along the Seto Inland Sea (Image credit: Josh Grengs)

Upon crossing the final bridge from Oshima island to the town of Imabari in Ehime, your journey across the Shimanami Kaido will be drawing to a close. While the 70km stretch of roads and bicycle paths can take an entire day of cycling to complete, the views you will enjoy throughout your journey are more than worth the effort. And as Imabari is famous for its towels, it serves as the perfect point to finish off your tour and wipe off any remaining sweat with some soft Imabari cloth.

Getting There

From Shin-Osaka Station (新大阪駅 Shin-Ōsaka-eki), take the Tokaido-Sanyo Shinkansen and transfer at Fukuyama Station (福山駅 Fukuyama-eki) to the San-yo Line. Take the San-yo Line (山陽本線 San'yō-honsen) to from Fukuyama Station to Onomichi Station (尾道駅 Onomichi-eki) and get off. It is a short walk from Onomichi Station to Onomichi Port (尾道港 Onomichi-kō) where you can rent a bicycle for your trip. Have fun!

Shimanami Kaidō (しまなみ海道)
Nearest station: Onomichi Station (尾道駅) / Imabari Station (今治駅)
Open: Year-round

Header image credit: photoAC