From sea to summit: Exploring the mystical and mountainous island of Yakushima
The pinnacle of Kyushu, Mount Miyanoura (宮之浦岳)
Known for its magical forests, ancient trees, and countless power spots, Yakushima (屋久島) is an enchanting island overflowing with mystery and wonder. Its natural landscape has served as inspiration for the scenery in Ghibli’s animated masterpiece Princess Mononoke (もののけ姫 Mononokehime) and functions as a sort of time capsule for a primaeval world now mostly lost to humankind.
One of several ancient Yakusugi lining the trail to Mount Miyanoura. (Image credit: Julien Manchuelle)
That said, while the focus of Yakushima is usually on its stunning Yakusugi (屋久杉) Japanese cedar trees and mystical, moss-covered forests, one often overlooked feature of the island is Mount Miyanoura (宮之浦岳 Miyanoura-dake), the highest mountain in Kyushu (九州). Towering 1,936m tall, Mount Miyanoura is the perfect culmination to any journey through the luscious green trails weaving across this natural wonderland. With views extending out to sea, the peak perfectly captures the compact beauty of this subtropical island and hints at the many sites still waiting to be discovered below. And as with any adventure, it is the places found on the way that provide the real highlights to one’s travels around Yakushima.
Ancient spirits of the forest
A heart-shaped opening at Wilson’s Stump on the trail to Mount Miyanoura. (Image credit: Josh Grengs)
The path to Mount Miyanoura takes one through an ancient forest of Japanese cedars, some aged thousands of years old. Two must-see sites located on this hike are Wilson’s Stump, which can be entered into at the base offering a view of a heart-shaped opening above, and the Jōmon Sugi (縄文杉), a giant cedar estimated to be anywhere from 2000 to 7000 years old. The Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine (白谷雲水峡 shiratani unsuikyō) is yet another mesmerizing spot situated on the path up Mount Miyanoura and arguably the most mystical area found within Yakushima’s expansive landscape. Indeed, it was here that Miyazaki Hayao (宮崎駿) drew inspiration for the setting of his film Princess Mononoke. Yet not all of Yakushima’s charm lies in its forests, as a quick drive around the island soon reveals.
A dip into the most natural of onsen
Path down to the seaside hot spring Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen. (Image credit: Josh Grengs)
Like much of Japan, Yakushima offers its own local hot springs that visitors can enjoy after exploring the island’s more mountainous side. Notable among these is Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen (平内海中温泉), a seaside, mixed-gender hot spring set right along Yakushima’s rocky coast. As an open-air co-ed onsen, this hot spring is definitely not for the faint at heart, but the beauty and relaxation it provides cannot be overstated. For those looking to escape the prying eyes of other bathers, a visit at night offers the protection of darkness, while still affording a rejuvenating dip in the bath’s warm waters.
The hot springs here are accessible twice a day at low tide but only for a few hours total, so make sure to look up the bathing times for that day before heading out. There are also several gender-separate hot spring bathing facilities located around the island that offer a more private onsen experience, should one be so inclined. Whichever you choose, there truly is no feeling like getting out of a piping hot onsen and heading back out on the road to explore more of this fantastic island.
Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen (平内海中温泉)
Address: Hirauchi, Yakushima, Kumage-gun, Kagoshima 891-4406
Access: 5-minute walk from "Hirouchi-kaichu Onsen" bus stop
Opening hours: 24 hours (bathing hours twice a day for around two hours at low tide)
Admission fee: ¥200
Tel: +81-997-47-2953
A quiet little lighthouse
View of Yakushima (Nagata) Lighthouse from below. (Image credit: photoAC)
Another secluded site worth checking out on a tour of Yakushima is the Yakushima (Nagata) Lighthouse (屋久島灯台 Yakushima-tōdai). Positioned on an outcrop of coastline on the northwestern side of the island, this immaculate-white lighthouse provides a refreshing contrast to the green and blue hues of the surrounding mountains and sea. After exploring all the rich natural wonders of the island, the lighthouse also offers a great spot to stop and reflect on all you have witnessed around Yakushima. From the towering summit of Mount Miyanoura to the teeming shores abutting Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen, Yakushima abounds in majestic sites that cover a wide range of altitudes and topographies. To get to Yakushima is a journey, and many Japanese say the island will only call you when you are ready. With so much to see, make sure you come prepared.
Yakushima Lighthouse (屋久島灯台)
Address: Nagata, Yakushima, Kumage-gun, Kagoshima 891-4201
Access: 55-minute drive from Yakushima Airport
Opening hours: 24 hours (only the exterior can be visited)
Admission fee: Free
Tel: +81-997-43-5900
Getting there
Take the Kamoikeko Line (鴨池港線 Kamoikekō-sen) from Kagoshima Station (鹿児島駅 Kagoshima-eki) and get off at Kamoikeko Station (鴨池港駅 Kamoikekō-eki). It is about a 5-minute walk from Kamoikeko Station to Kagoshima Port (鹿児島港 kagoshima-kō). From Kagoshima Port, take a high-speed boat or car ferry to Miyanoura Port (宮之浦港 Miyanoura-kō) on Yakushima. Alternatively, you can fly from Osaka, Fukuoka, or Kagoshima directly to Yakushima Airport (KUM) (屋久島空港 Yakushima-kūkō). As public transportation is limited on the island, it is best to get a rental car to travel to the various sites found around Yakushima.
Header image credit: Josh Grengs
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