Kusatsu Onsen: "Ulu" onsen escapade from Tokyo

Want a short getaway from the hustle and bustle of the city of Tokyo? Kusatsu Onsen Village located in Gunma Prefecture is a highly recommended spot to visit if you're seeking to recharge your tired body. Travellers to Kusatsu Onsen will notice two things: firstly, the distinct smell of sulfur enveloping the whole town, and secondly, the bustling energy of excited tourists from all over the world congregating at the main central area of ​​Kusatsu Onsen—the Yubatake (which means “hot water field” in Japanese).

(Image credit: JR Times / Julia Yee)

During my visit in December 2019, I was at a loss when choosing my accommodation. Kusatsu Onsen village has more than 100 accommodations to choose from! Of the many onsen (hot springs) located Kusatsu Onsen Village, my personal recommendation would be Sainokawara Rotenburo because my experience there was nothing short of amazing.

Nestled in Sainokawara Park which is just a 12min walk from Yubatake Hot Water Fields, Sainokawara Rotenburo is truly an open-air bath that offers relaxation amongst nature. Although located just a short stroll from Kusatsu Onsen Town Center, Sainokawara Rotenburo is very much part of the countryside area.

(Image credit: photoAC)

I was initially hesitant for visiting during a cold wintery night – the walk up to the Onsen was an adventure, to say the least. 

(Image credit: JR Times / Julia Yee)

But my feelings of regret melted instantly the moment I saw the sheer size of the bath. Delicately illuminated by the glow of the lanterns and natural moonlight, the spacious 500sqm open-air bath was surrounded by the forest. It got me thinking that visitors can enjoy all changes of the seasons from the luscious green in the early summer, to the changing colors of leaves in autumn and of course, this magical snowscape in winter. 

I personally loved my visit during the winter season. There’s nothing better than soaking in an Onsen in the middle of a chilly winter, and watching the snow fall!

(Image credit: Visit Gunma)

These bathes are separated by gender and as they are fairly large in size, they make for ideal places to visit if you are travelling in large groups. Be sure to go during off-peak timing as there are limited number of lockers available for those who would like to stow away your valuables. Like most Onsens, personal baskets are also available for you to stash your belongings, but be sure not to forget which basket is yours as they are not numbered!

(Image credit: photoAC)

Onsen etiquettes would require you to rinse yourself with a pail and warm water located right at the entrance of the bath after you exit the changing area. If you’re visiting during the winter, you would have to brave the cold before reaching the warm waters, so be sure not to run as the floors will be slippery! It is recommended that you bring a small face towel to dry up after the bath as there are no areas to wash off afterwards. As an integral part of the Onsen culture, you can purchase a refreshing milk drink at the register! They come in 2 delicious flavors – Strawberry and Coffee Milk!

For those who may be a little shy to fully embrace the onsen-culture, consider visiting Sainokawara Open-Air Bath on a Friday evening, because it is only during this period that visitors can enter wearing swimwear or wrapped in a towel. Take this chance to enjoy the full Onsen experience together with your friends and family!

Sainokawara Rotenburo (西の河原露天風呂)
Address: 521-3 Kusatsu, Agatsuma District, Gunma 377-1711
Opening hours: 9am-8pm
Admission: ￥600 (adult), ￥300 (children)
Tel: +81 279-88-6167

Header image: photoAC