Ume-yu: Travel back in time in Kyoto’s charming retro bathhouse
Hidden in a small alley along the charming Takase River (高瀬川 Takase-gawa), Sauna no Ume-yu (サウナの梅湯) is a public bathhouse that is loved by locals, college students, and tourists alike. Amidst the declining popularity of sento (銭湯) or bathhouses in Kyoto Prefecture (京都府 Kyōto-fu) as well as the crushing pandemic, this particular sento managed to stay strong. With its 100-year-old history, Ume-yu was also in danger of closure before its current owner, a sento enthusiast, came to save the day.
Located only a 15-minute walk from Kyoto Station (京都駅 Kyōto-eki), Ume-yu is a popular destination for tourists who want to experience a sento like the locals. With English speaking staff, many tourists find this unique sento quite convenient. One thing that sets this sento apart from its peers is that it has a tattoo-friendly policy.
Retro vibe everywhere you look
Forgot to bring your own toiletries? Ume-yu sells toiletries like razors, face wash, and small towels at affordable prices. (Image credit: Indah Wijayanti)
The exterior of this sento is remarkably photogenic. Retaining the original style of the building along with its flashy neon, the sento gives out a retro vibe that attracts the attention of passersby. During its busy season, you can even see youngsters hanging out in front of the building.
Rows of manga comic books that feature sento in its setting, all free for browsing. (Image credit: Indah Wijayanti)
The interior is just as exciting as its exterior. With its warm ambient lights and unique trinkets decorated here and there, anyone who comes in will feel like they have been teleported to a different era. The design is trendy, hip, yet classic all at the same time.
Wallet-friendly price
The price is very affordable even for a neighborhood sento. (Image credit: Indah Wijayanti)
To enter Ume-yu, customers are charged at an affordable price of ¥450 per person and customers can come empty-handed since the sento also provides towel rental for just ¥30. Ume-yu also sells other amenities in addition to free soap and shampoo inside the bath, and the ladies would be happy to know that they can use the makeup removers and moisturisers in the changing rooms free of charge as well. Despite its old interior, the changing rooms are clean and have enough lockers with keys to ensure the safety of customers’ belongings.
Sauna no Ume-yu has several different baths in their facility including jet baths, medicinal baths that smell really great, electric baths, and cold baths. They also have a sauna that can be used without any additional charge.
Refreshing drinks after bath
Arrays of refreshing drinks to choose from. (Image credit: Indah Wijayanti)
After a hot bath, one can expect to chill while enjoying refreshments that are sold in the shop. They sometimes sell drinks that are not commonly found in local konbini (コンビニ convenience stores). It is really worth trying. Not limited to drinks, Sauna no Ume-yu also sells souvenirs for you to take home.
Souvenirs to take home with. (Image credit: Indah Wijayanti)
The sento is closed every Thursday but during those closing days, they usually hold live music performances or talk events inside the baths or changing rooms. This is one sento that should not be missed on your next trip to Kyoto.
Sauna no Ume-Yu (サウナの梅湯)
Address: 175 Iwataki-cho, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto, 600-8115
Nearest station: Kiyomizu-Gojō Station (清水五条駅)
Access: 6-minute walk from the station
Opening hours: 2pm–2am (Mondays–Saturdays), 6am–12pm & 2pm–2am (Sundays) (Closed on Thursdays）
Admission fee: ¥450 (Adult); ¥150 (Under 12 years old); ¥60 (Under 6 years old)
Tel: +81 80-2523-0626
Header image credit: Indah Wijayanti
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